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When compiling a list of London’s top eateries, one might foresee renowned Michelin-starred venues. However, nestled prominently among these culinary giants is a simple salonu situated in a far-flung area of north London.

A Surprise Recognition

This small Turkish spot, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a influential food magazine. This recognition has left the proprietors totally surprised.

“I’m utterly surprised,” states a family member, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their humble restaurant earning such a high position on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

The compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after food hotspot, has retained much of its original character. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking performance, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate spot,” notes the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the food, and this eatery more than succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a succulent consistency.

It is then tossed into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. When the savoury mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is folded neatly inside.

The wrap is often enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty burst of taste, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than is typical, imparting it a more intense, more aromatic and not overly sweet flavour.

Outranking the Titans

Notably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, equivalent tasting menus at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

A Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is shared by the list’s editor, who stated that if he were in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Journey of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not work at fancy establishments. “I feel very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she had a social life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

An Achievement for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is bound to echo beyond its own premises. “I believe numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the broader significance of this culinary triumph.